Someone from Galicia is called a Gallego (it’s also a common surname). So Caldo Gallego could be translated as Galician soup or Galician broth. It’s a hearty soup, loaded with beans, turnips (or potatoes), meat and greens. Caldo Gallego is really quite delicious and after a day walking through the foggy mountains of Galicia, it will warm you to your toes.
The Spanish eat all sorts of hearty greens
They love their greens in Northern Spain. You see them growing everywhere. There seems to be lots of varieties and they also eat the greens from plants like cauliflower and broccoli that we normally throw away. Almost as soon as you enter the region you notice tall stalks loaded with leaves.
In the photo above you can see some type of kale (?) growing in front of a hórreo, similar to the corn cribs you may be familiar with. The cook cuts what is needed for a meal and allows the rest of the plant to continue growing. Greens are also fed to livestock. It’s a very efficient system.
I was in a town called Triacastela when I had my Camino Caldo Gallego. The greens served with the soup were incredibly tender, almost fluffy, and very flavorful. I don’t know what type of greens they were. Turnip greens and kale are traditional.
I remember being incredibly hungry. The day before I had survived the difficult climb to O’Cebreiro, the first stop in Galicia. The walk from there to Triacastela was also a struggle for me, so after checking into the municipal albergue I went looking for something to eat.
Caldo Gallego was part of a meal fit for a Queen
There was enough soup for two people in the sopera, but I ate it all without hesitation, along with the crusty local bread and a bottle of very crisp and fruity Albariño, the local white wine. If you like Riesling you’ll probably like Albariño. The second course was a baked egg dish similar to Huevos a la Flamenca (I don’t remember what it was called on the menu) followed by a local goat’s milk cheese topped with honey. The cheese was very soft and tasted almost grassy.
They say hunger is the best seasoning, but that meal stands out to me over a year later.
I wandered around Triacastela for a while before heading back to the albergue where I was asleep before the sun had completely disappeared behind the mountains.
Here’s how Rick and I make Caldo Gallego in our house. It’s a “hurry up” version as opposed to the traditional method which uses dried beans and takes a couple hours to cook unless you have a pressure cooker.
Carmen, Rick’s mother, always used turnips and turnip greens but if you’re not a fan feel free to substitute potatoes and another type of green. Chard or kale would be nice, or a leafy cabbage. The greens are added near the end of cooking so something tender would be the best choice.
The white beans used in our soup are called judiones. We buy them in a jar. They’re larger than cannellini beans but have a similar texture. Lima beans would be a good substitute. Again, buy the canned ones to save cooking time.
For the meat, we used a piece of “soup meat” and some sausage. In Galicia you’re likely to find chorizo or morcilla (a type of blood sausage that tastes better than you might think). If you use chorizo it turns the broth a nice color but it may overwhelm the other flavors. Sometimes the chef will use pig’s ears or snouts to flavor the broth. (Both orejas and morros are commonly used in Spanish cooking. I will eat them if they show up in something I’m served but otherwise I make another choice.)
The point is, use whatever you prefer to flavor the broth. You’ll end up with good soup.
Ingredients
- 1 large onion diced
- 2 -3 cloves garlic diced
- pinch red pepper flake
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 3 fist sized turnips, with tops, trimmed and cleaned or peeled, diced. (You can substitute potatoes, or mix them.)
- Reserved tops from the turnips, rinsed and chopped. Keep the stems separate from the leaves. (Any quick cooking green like kale, chard or spinach can be substituted)
- 4 ounces of "soup meat" We also used a fresh sausage. (Bacon works, too. Cook it first and saute the onions in the drippings)
- couple bay leaves (the fresher the better)
- salt and pepper to taste
- 2 quarts chicken or vegetable broth
- 1 jarred or canned cannelini or lima beans 12 – 16 ounces
Instructions
- Use a large dutch oven to saute the onions, garlic, the stems from the turnip greens and red pepper flakes in a little olive oil. (We sauteed the sausage at the same time)
- When the onions have softened and changed color, add the chopped turnips and whatever meat you’re using to flavor the soup. Cover with the broth. Season with the bay leaves and salt and pepper.
- Bring to a simmer and cook until the turnips are soft. It will take 30 minutes or more depending on the size and age of the turnips.
- Stir in the beans and the turnip tops. If adding chorizo, this is the time to do it.
- Taste and adjust the seasoning to suit. Remove the bay leaves before serving.
If desired, you can omit the meaty bits altogether. If you’d like to bulk up your Caldo Gallego, add more greens. You could also add a chopped potato.
More of our favorite soups:
Nansi Naranjo
I found this recipe a few years ago when I received turnips from out local Community Supported Agriculture share. I don’t really care for turnips, but this soup is amazing! I make the soup vegan by using vegetable broth and I add soyrizo at the end. It is soooo good!
Mary Bostow
I absolutely love adding as many greens to a homemade soup as possible. I never thought of using broccoli or cauliflower greens though. I’ll give that a try. Your soup is lovely and would be comfort food in this house.
Donna
Oh yum, I love all the hearty ingredients in this soup! And I just happened to pick up some turnips from the farmers market this weekend 🙂
Julie
Love a good hearty winter soup – after a weekend of snow, this looks like the perfect dinner!
J
I think I just found the next recipe I’ll be making in my dutch oven! Love the fresh kale!
Abby @ WinsteadWandering
I love how y’all adapted a classic family recipe to fit a busy lifestyle. This soup looks perfect for the chilly weather we’ve been having lately!
Helene
Homemade flavors in a gorgeous heart warming sou. Lydia I could fall in love with your soup. 🙂 I like that it includes turnips, we don’t eat enough of those vegetables.
Emily Leary
Another soup to add to my list! It’s something I haven’t had before and I try to switch up what soups I make often to keep things exciting.
Tina
Your soup looks amazing. It’s 20 degrees right now and your soup looks like it will hit the spot. That kale though, I didn’t know it could grow so tall!
Christine
I’ve never heard of this, but it looks amazing! So cozy and perfect for this cold weather. Yum!
Sharon Rigsby
What a simple and delicious looking soup! We grow turnips in North Florida and I can’t wait to try this recipe! We should be having our first frost any day now so the turnips will be perfect for picking. What a beautiful country Spain is and how lucky you are to live there! Thank you for sharing this wonderful recipe!
Dominique | Perchance to Cook
I love cannelini beans in soup! This soup looks warm and comforting and delish. Can’t wait to try it!
Sarah
I want soup right now!! This looks so flavorful, and I love all the kale!
John/Kitchen Riffs
I sometimes make a soup that’s kinda, sorta similar. Haven’t included turnips in it, though — like the idea. We’re finally supposed to be getting a killing freeze in a day or two, so I better harvest the rest of my chard. I can use it in this! 🙂 Thanks so much.
LydiaF
I imagine everyone has a soup that’s kinda, sorta similar. We had our first real frost last night. Chard is a good choice for this, enjoy!